Wednesday, 31 October 2012

Richard Haines for Prada.


Always the innovators, Prada commissioned Haines for a multi-platform project featuring the fashion house’s collections for the season. “Il Palazo,” according to Prada, references the ‘palace of role play’ where “Hollywood leading men Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody, Willem Dafoe and Jamie Bell walked a red carpet runway.” 
For those unfamiliar with the concept, the project will unfold in stages, starting with a series of rare and collectable book releases of Haines’ original sketch work and culminating in a project app and dedicated platform on Prada.com. The last element will showcase a “virtual Palazo” in which visitors will be able to discover “rooms” full of Prada accessories, as well as Haines’ Prada-based artwork. Dazed Digital have an exclusive interview with Haines about the project and more information.
Click on the Prada tag at the bottom of this post to see more of their projects involving fashion illustrators.













Tuesday, 16 October 2012

Christian Lacroix for Tank Magazine





Tank magazine's fall issue features four different covers illustrated by couturier Christian Lacroix, who made collages and drawings based on editor Caroline Issa's selections from the fall 2012 collections. The magazine, which hits newsstands on September 15, contains a full fifteen plates of his work, as well as scented pages created by Finnish artist Sissel Tolaas. 

Original text from Tank's website:



FASHION NOW

Text by Caroline Issa
Illustrations by Christian Lacroix

The autumn/winter shows are always my favourite. There is just so much more to look at. Think of all the layering pieces: the coats, the jackets, the jumpers. I was rewarded with spectacular visions by designers that entirely reflected my own tastes - promises of the trouser suit, rich brocades, deep purples and plenty of leather. 
When we were planning this issue, I wanted to ensure we had a collections story as a visual reminder of the shows that had made my heart sing. From Valentino's impressively feminine show, Thakoon's vibrant trench coat and feather confections, to Maison Martin Margiela's beautiful, if exaggerated, tailoring. These were the key looks that stood out. More than anything this season is about a new line, a shape and form that wants to take off somewhere new. Asking the great couturier and creative genius, Christian Lacroix to interpret 14 looks of the season was the easy part. And it was mind-blowing when he agreed. 
These are looks from shows I really admired. Christian with iPad and stylo (his tool of choice nowadays) generated a series of sketches, combining his legendary illustrations with new collage techniques. His digital tools only enhanced his personal touch, his distinct fingerprint on such delicate details was perfectly in tune with this issue's theme of technology and sensuality and so unmistakably Lacroix with his incredible genius to make us dream. I love his interpretation of the looks of the season by fellow creators, and hope you do too. 
Production & coordination: Jérôme Puch







Continue Reading . . .

Thursday, 11 October 2012

Menswear SS10 by artist Donald Urquhart.

Back in 2009, artist and Saatchi favourite Donald Urquhart was asked to produce a series of illustrations to accompany Ponystep's seasonal menswear review (back in the pre-magazine days of their website). Impossible to find anywhere online since the website closed, I've been able to chase them down after a good while and can show them again! Looks include Romain Kremer, Dunhill Raf, Prada, and Yves Saint Laurent. . . . I think.
In honesty, the main appeal in these images is more to do with the stylistic and humourous approach that Urquhart takes, and showing the general notions and shapes that menswear was taking in 2010. Would love to see him interpret the next season.

Myself and Julie Verhoeven were also asked to produce the accompanying illustrations for the other seasons. To see Julie's click here. For mine, click here.

 (T/Y Richard Mortimer!)










Sunday, 30 September 2012

WOOYOUNGMI AW2012 campaign.

Menswear label WOOYOUNGMI continue their artist collaborations for each campaign with this latest one by Clemens Krauss. Titled 'Laughter and Value', 2012, oil on canvas, 190 x 140cm.








Each season WOOYOUNGMI will collaborate with an artist to support their work and allow them to interpret the season's collection. The artist will not only produce a piece of work that will become the print advertising campaign but also exhibit their work in MANMADE WOOYOUNGMI. 
These are only the first two in the running series, I absolutely loved their last campaign artwork by Lee Song (below) 'Around The City' (detail), 2011, oli on canvas, 162cm x 130cm and the slight nod to Ed Hopper, one of Lee's favourite artists.




Information from WOOYOUNGMI's website:
The whole concept of how modern man lives all isolated without fulfilling the needs of being attached in a group and being loved, which is the third stage of the psychologist Abraham Maslow’s hierarchy of needs theory, is what WOOYOUNGMI 2012 A/W Collection and Clemens have in common in their work.

In his series 'Concepts of Isolation' Clemens Krauss consequently explores the vulnerabilities of the individual in the social context. Although modern times seem to provide all sorts of amenities, society at the same time is faced with growing alienation and isolation. Yet men are social beings who after fulfilling basic physiological and safety needs long for love, friendship and intimacy

Clemens Krauss distinctively painted those modern men living their lives alone and isolated as they are not being loved and alienated from their busy lives with family and co-workers, with his very thick impasto depictions and has thrown a big question mark for the solutions for recovering from everyone’s suffering.
Lee Song, one of Korea's current rising artists, was chosen as the first collaborator. The WOOYOUNGMI designers Woo Youngmi and Woo Janghee not only admire his unique style of simple line with sophisticated detailing but also connect with his approach to his work. In the short conversational film entitled Let Me Eat Cake both artist and designers express their desire to describe and heal their contemporary through their work. Both are examining the modern world and its ongoing daily routine. They would like to offer something to their viewer / customer as a break from the habitual. Fashion and art are not vital to our existence but through them we can taste a different outlook. 

Saturday, 29 September 2012

Judith Van Den Hoek





Dutch illustrator and graphic designer Judith is someone whom I have been keeping an eye on for some time.


The influence of Gruau and Downton is clear in her work for sure, yet it avoids being completely derivative, due to the slightly more sharper approach to her lines and the soft grey tones of her backgrounds. There is a clear sense of determination to boil the image down to as little as possible, demanding the absolute satisfaction out of just one single line or two for the silhouette, the complete hallmark of a true minimalist approach. Judith openly states her love for Gruau in her interview with Fashionarium, and her sense of reductivism is something I greatly admire.


Materials wise, Judith uses Paint tools, Copic Ciao Felt pen (100 Black), pencils and Black marker. Photoshop is also used after drawing to give to the illustration a fresh and clean look. Her work has won her interest by Vogue Nederland whom she now currently illustrates for. For more of her work, check her blog or tumblr. 








Continue Reading . . .

Wednesday, 12 September 2012

F.I.G's open evening - Vogue's Fashion Night Out.

As part of the annual event, Fashion Illustration Gallery showcased the prints and originals of it's roster of illustrators at it's venue on Cork St in London (situated just behind Bond St).

I strongly suggest going to F.I.G's open evenings whenever possible if you are fortunate enough to live in London. William Ling, gallery owner and the man in charge, has created a public platform for showcasing the most prolific illustrators in the business, something that has been somewhat lacking when it comes to fashion illustration. Seen as the minority and occasional alternative to photography and editorials, public and industry folk alike aren't always aware of the history of fashion illustration and aren't exposed to just how incredible some of the best talents are, or the work they put out for for high profile clients. With a focus on displaying commissioned pieces, F.I.G had three gloved assistants on hand to display to visitors both prints and originals from the artists.






A big focus of the open evening was on David Downton, who was on hand to sign copies of Masters Of Fashion Illustration in the new paperback edition, and previewing a new series of prints with the gallery which will be available later this year. I managed to have a small chat with Downton again after meeting him previously at LCF's Go Figure exhibit, talking mainly about Gruau and naturally asking him to sign my copy of Pourqoui Pas? (fanboy moment - being very flattered when he mentioned he loved my work, argh). It was also great to manage a brief catch up with Decoy favourite Richard Gray (Downton and Gray have known each other for years having both illustrated from the couture shows and salons) who I'm happy to say is still interpreting Keko Hainswheeler's accessories for a series of personal works after illustrating one previously for the double page spread in Decoy 3.


On display; Downton's original of Cate Blanchett for Vogue Australia's 40th anniversary issue.

With illustration legends Gray and Downton at F.I.G.




Also showcasing their newest member, a series of three new prints by Ricardo Fumanal are available with F.I.G, including 'Automatic Lover' for Hercules Magazine, 2008, which was used for Decoy's cover on Issue 2.




I unfortunately ended up rushing out to meet a friend and didn't get a chance to have a look through their selection of rare books like 'Antonio's Girls', or take enough photos for this post like I should have. Regardless, make sure you sign up to F.I.G's mailing list or their facebook to keep updated with their latest news, signings, and available pieces.

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Commons & Sense issue 43






I'm honoured to say that I'm featured in the new issue of Tokyo based Commons & Sense along with good friend and talented illustrator Tara Dougans. C&S is a goldmine for anyone with an interest in fashion illustration, holding the most illustrated content I've seen in a high profile mag in years. The last two issues included Decoy favourites David Downton and Richard Gray (link to editorial) and have introduced me to several talents I had not yet come across. I'll be updating this post with more information and illustrators once I receive my copy in the post . . .

Click images to enlarge.

Issue 43, from Alexander McQueen fall 2012 editorial, by Tara Dougans.




Issue 43,  from Hermes fall 2012 editorial, by Richard Kilroy 




issue 42, from David Downton's beauty editorial.



Friday, 24 August 2012

New Exhibition: Dalston Superstore 'Walking The Lines'





To coincide with London Fashion Week, Dalston Superstore and Decoy proudly present an exhibition celebrating fashion illustration. Dalston Superstore has taken the knowledge and understanding of the ever-increasing subject to produce a beautiful and simplistic exhibition. Home to some of the most prolific fashion illustrators in the world, London is one of the biggest breeding grounds for new talent to emerge.

As a medium, fashion illustration has diversified from its advertising and haute couture lookbook origins. The term ‘fashion illustration’ itself no longer simply means to just illustrate clothing. Whilst the ability of illustrating garments is still an art form in its own right, fashion has become the available context of the work.

This expansion of context has allowed illustrators of recent years to experiment with new styles and ways of interpreting clothing and brand images. Further marrying artistry with fashion imagery.

Featured illustrators include:





Multi-faceted talent and fully fledged designer at London Fashion Week, Alex Noble originally worked as an illustrator, creating series of works, collages and murals for the likes of Dalston Superstore, Batty Bass and Wound Magazine. The visual language of bold colours, art nouveau reference, characteristically long limbs and use of masking tape led to installations for MTV and Glastonbury. Noble has produced fashion pieces featured in many world wide publications His spectacular outfits for the likes of Lady GaGa and Florence Welch have opened up the worlds eyes to his creativity. His label continues to flourish with each collection.





Along side Noble’s renowned style and grace, Richard Kilroy will be showcasing his own illustrations. Richard’s style of combining photorealism with loose line work has earned him clients that include Dior, Vman, Commons&Sense, Topshop and more. Focusing on menswear, his inspiration comes from the notions of suggestion and reductivism, and the importance of line. 




A fashion illustrator whose style is completely unique is Tara Dougans, Tara Dougans' style is easily identified by her strangely stoic characters, obsessively rendered details and tendency to depict powerful looks. With a heavy emphasis on concept and play, commissions include collaborations with Iris van Herpen, the Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, Telegraph Fashion, Amsterdam Fashion Week and exclusive work for NOWNESS.com. Also working as an art director, her most recent projects explore the intersection of handcraft and technology – animation, film and digital editorial.





Also exhibiting, Ex-Central Saint Martin's student and SHOWstudio favourite Stephen Doherty works primarily in graphic media, creating portraits with a contemporary edge. His organic textures and lines lend to a unique and identifiable figurative style. After leaving his three year post as assistant designer to Craig Lawrence, Stephen is currently working on his own collection.





Illustrator Jason Lear is a relative newcomer to the field. Having already worked with Peter Pilotto and Disorder magazine, his work reflects the aspects of illustrators throughout the 20th century, taking inspiration from the likes of Kenneth Paul Block, Gruau and David Downton: Descriptions of details are through energetic brush strokes and spare use of line, most definitely one to watch. These Illustrators are just five of nine artists whose work will be displayed through out the 6 weeks that Dalston Superstore becomes home to Walking The Line.


For more information:

Thursday, 23 August 2012

Illustrator Flashback: Julie Verhoeven




Continuing the theme of flashback posts, just a small post for today. I remembered having recently seen these by Verhoeven, design drawnings back in 1994 for John Galliano, who she was then assisting. You can see straight away in the loose shapes, the description of the fabric and twisted body proportions Julie's markmaking ability that would later come to define her work.The faces here however were more attuned to a regular way of approaching drawing facial features, in terms of their proportions etc. So it's really cool to see her line work for bodies and figures eventually made it's way to her faces too.

Tuesday, 21 August 2012

Illustrator Flashback: Jason Brooks

Jason's style is as infamous as it is recognizable. Widely copied, it arguably became one of the most identifiable illustrative styles around the millennium era. His work for Hed Kandi dominated mainstream illustration, and had such huge influence during the peak of Ibiza's popularity, that Hed Kandi continued to commission illustrators to replicate his long limbed, glossy lipped, narrow eyes beauties years after he left.

As his style continues to evolve (F.I.G and his website currently display his more recent hand based / less digital works), it's great to discover this in one of my old copies of The Face, dated way back from January 1993. Completely hand drawn without a digital alteration in touch, you'd be forgiven for not thinking these were by Brooks. The 'Bovril Babe' being the only giveaway to his future work. It's always exciting as an illustrator myself to see just how much an illustrator's style has changed over the years and seeing the development there. More flashback posts will happen for sure when I can. Have fun reading the quotes (click to enlarge)




Saturday, 18 August 2012

New Exhibition, NY: 'Fashion Illustration: A Contemporary Look'



Fashion Illustration: A Contemporary Look
September 6 – December 1, 2012
Brooklyn Public Library  |  Central and Brooklyn Heights



To coincide with New York Fashion Week SS13, Fashion Illustration: A Contemporary Look will be the largest American showcase of established fashion illustrators in over a decade.

The exhibition aims to bring awareness to the art form, its history, and to showcase its practical applications. On display will be work commissioned and intended for editorial and marketing purposes.  Viewers will have a rare behind the scenes look at the inspiration and creative process that goes into big budget advertising campaigns.


Also neatly coinciding with the release of Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex and Disco, never-before-seen images from Lopez will also be on display, including (unreleased) photos and videos taken by Antonio of friends, models, and colleagues Jerry Hall, Grace Coddington, Pat Cleveland, Grace Jones, and Karl Lagerfeld.

It's a shame that living in the UK, I'm not going to be able to make it there myself, and urge anyone in the U.S with an interest in fashion illustration to go see this. Viewing the original works of others is important to an illustrator. Not only does it give you a better insight into the illustrator's methods and techniques, but it's also interesting to see what original pieces look like before going through any retouching. When viewing the work of Rene Gruau for example, it's fun to spot where corrections have been made and what has been altered or tidied when used for reproduction. Something fascinating but also reassuring to illustrators like myself.

Featured artists:
Richard Haines
Autumn Whitehurst
Sarah Singh
Anja Kroencke
Carlos Aponte
Samantha Hahn
Marcos Chin
Jennifer Lilya
Elaine Pedler
Izak Zenou
Don Oehl

This select group of established illustrators have been featured in major publications including Vogue, Elle, InStyle, WWD and Daily Candy for brands and retailers such as, Chanel, Givenchy, Tiffany, Ray Ban, L’Oreal, Victoria’s Secret, Sephora, and Henri Bendel. A great line up that spans illustrative styles significantly. Autumn Whitehurst's digital renderings for examples are in sharp contrast to the energetic sketches of Richard Haines. Examples are included below.




Don Oehl



Autumn Whitehurst




Richard Haines






Sarah Singh


Jennifer Lilya









Special Events include:
       Panel Discussions
       Fashion Film Series
       FREE Fashion Illustration Classes
       Live Demo with Fashion Illustrator Bil Donovan
       Author Events:

Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex, & Disco by Roger Padilha & Mauricio Padilha


The Opening Reception is at the Brooklyn Public Library, Central Branch on September 6th, 2012 at 6 p.m.  For more info Join their group on Facebook.